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An Afternoon in Todos Santos, Mexico

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Iglesia Nuestra Señora del Pilar, Todos Santos, Mexico.

Todos Santos, Baja California Sur, Mexico, began in 1723 as a Catholic mission. Its underground aquifers fed sugar production beginning in the mid-1800s. And for nearly 100 years, sugar money built up the beautiful buildings in the town until the water ran dry.

Now agriculture once again flourishes in the area, and the town has become a center for the arts. It's been deemed a Pueblo Magico by the Mexican tourist board - one of a handful of towns that offer a unique cultural experience, rooted in history, culture, foodways, and other traditions. This was our second visit to this truly magical town, and we spent an afternoon - not long enough - exploring, eating, drinking, and meeting its amazing people.

We learned to make this Quick Mole Sauce during our stay at nearby Rancho Pescadero.

Fish Tacos Santo Chilote restaurant in Todos Santos Mexico. A yellow wall with a green chile logo to the left of a food pickup window. A waiter in a blue shirt stands to the right of the window.

At the suggestion of a local we encountered at our hotel front desk, we had tacos here with fish, coconut shrimp, and deep fried avocado.

A bottle of Topo Chico water on a wooden table.

And of course we had some Topo Chico!

A stone fountain in Todos Santos Mexico in a small plaza with palm trees in the background.
A white building and a blue building on a street in Todos Santos, Mexico, on a street lined with agave and palm trees.

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A brick wall is painted with a row of multi-colored skulls with palm trees in the background in Todos Santos, Mexico.
A two-story brick building with a storefront and a wooden garage door in Todos Santos, Mexico.
Two glass bottles of infused syrups for cocktails at the Todos Santos Inn, sitting on a wooden bar with liquor bottles in the background.

We stopped into the bar at the Todos Santos Inn for some craft cocktails. One chile-infused and made with mezcal, and an Old Fashioned with caramelized sugar.

A mezcal cocktail infused with chile sits on a tray on the bar, a cocktail napkin that reads "Todos Santos Inn" sits next to it. Photo by Brian Cummings.
An Old Fashioned cocktail sits on a bar on a napkin that reads, "The Todos Santos Inn". Other garnishes for drinks are in the background. Photo by Brian Cummings.
The bar at the Todos Santos Inn features a large wooden bar with mirrors and elaborate woodwork. The room has yellow walls and a deer head, and beams on the ceiling.
The bar at the Todos Santos Inn. A high-ceilinged room with yellow walls, stone tile floors, big leather arm chairs and large arched windows with blue curtains. the far wall has large glass doors that open onto a courtyard.
A small white storefront building with a large bush with red flowers growing over the top of it in Todos Santos, Mexico.
A large white wall with a wooden gate that has brightly colored birds, fish and other sea creatures.
A colorful Aztec calendar in relief on the side of a building in Todos Santos, Mexico, by artist Donna Billick.

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